| We arrived to cosmopolitan Brussels with
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| | Amsterdam for 4 days of touring pleasure.
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| 3 lost bags and 1 missing person. One
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| | We boarded our private glass topped boat
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| suitcase went to Moscow but all caught up
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| | and cruised through a labyrinth of
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| eventually. Janice and I led a perfect
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| | canals. Amsterdam has 140 miles in all.
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| size group of 39, not too big to get lost
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| | Our wonderful guide Marilyn commentated
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| in or too small for comfort.
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| | on the picturesque neighborhoods and
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| Each July trip draws school teachers who
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| | unique architecture. I photographed the
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| have loyally followed me around the world
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| | world's skinniest house, built in 1664.
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| and they do love Europe. We began with a
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| | It was 5 stories high and only the width
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| light orientation tour in the historic
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| | of the front door! Many locals live on
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| heart of this capital, followed by a tour
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| | houseboats and the area starts to
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| of the Chocolate Museum. I found this
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| | resemble a floating trailer park. Holland
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| boring, but the tastings were great.
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| | is about 100' below sea level. Pumps are
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| After a nap at the Sheraton, we enjoyed a
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| | used to constantly pump out water and
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| welcome dinner at Chez Leon, a typical
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| | basements do not exist.
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| Belgium Brasserie located on the charming
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| | The beer drinkers in this group loved the
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| "Rue de Restaurants." You can get mussels
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| | "Heineken Experience" with plenty of
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| in Brussels, but not brussel sprouts. And
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| | tastings and virtual games all over this
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| the french fry as it was invented here.
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| | famous brewery. The shoppers liked the
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| Our menu consisted of egg puff pastry
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| | Coster Diamond Factory where we learned
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| with Ardennes mouseline sauce, Flemish
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| | about cutting and polishing the precious
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| beef stew in Grimbergen ale and a dark
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| | stones. They locked us in a room with
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| chocolate mousse cake on a bed
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| | guards where a gazillion euros worth of
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| buttercream which was a culinary
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| | diamonds were displayed. We each had are
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| masterpiece never to be forgotten. I
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| | own agenda for free time. The art lovers
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| always say that a loud group is a happy
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| | explored the national museums of
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| group, but I think their decibel level
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| | Rembrandt and Van Gough. Many toured Ann
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| here may have been due to their
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| | Franks House where one can really sense
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| indulgence of amber ales. 428 different
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| | the drama as she hid from the Nazi's in
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| types are brewed in this country
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| | the tiny attic writing her diary. Others
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| including a popular new blueberry beer.
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| | went to Edam for cheese and Delft for
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| Later we scattered like chickens into the
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| | porcelain. I visited friends and indulged
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| Grand Place which is considered by most
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| | on Dutch pancakes of every style
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| to be the worlds most beautiful square.
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| | imaginable.
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| It comes to life at night every July with
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| | One day we visited Zaanse Schans, a
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| a light show and various unlicensed
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| | typical village for total Dutch
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| entertainers. One young lady is dressed
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| | immersion. We began at the Ratterman Clog
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| in candy tempting men to buy a bite.
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| | Factory where 3 million pairs are
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| If it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium.
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| | produced annually. They're used for
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| After breakfast, we began our morning
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| | working in the fields and are still worn
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| walking tour of the 17th century Grand
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| | today. Wooden shoes do not stretch so how
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| Place. It was actually 8:30 Sunday
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| | can locals proclaim these to be
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| morning and I marveled that in over a
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| | comfortable? I prefer my Jimmy Choo's
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| dozen visits here, I've never seen this
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| | stilettos and instead buy tulip bulbs for
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| place so empty. It echoed in silence as
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| | souvenirs. We then visit a cheese farm
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| tourists slept and the locals were gone
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| | and watched as they separated curds from
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| for holiday. Sunlight brilliantly flooded
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| | whey. Here we bought enough wheels of
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| the gothic cathedrals, classical facades
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| | flavored Goudas to make Wisconsin
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| and art nuveau houses. We were alone and
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| | jealous. [We never considered the weight
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| it was breathtaking.
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| | it would add later to our carry-ons.] We
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| We then visited the famed confectioner
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| | explored the open air museum with a
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| "Planet Chocolate" that opened especially
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| | backdrop of working windmills. There were
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| for our group. Pedestrians peered in the
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| | also small period cast farms with curious
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| windows with curiosity. A great
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| | ducks, goats and sheep.
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| demonstration was given by chocolatier
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| | That evening I had dinner with a friend I
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| Jon, grandson of the founder of this
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| | usually only see once every 5 years. Paul
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| factory renowned for producing 67
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| | says, "Suzy, you are like a good old book
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| different flavors. We learned about the
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| | in the library of my life that I tucked
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| history of cocoa. The ancient Mayans
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| | away. You re-enter out of nowhere. I dust
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| considered it an aphrodisiac and
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| | it off and the memories return." As we
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| Montezuma consumed it in copious amounts.
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| | catch up, I thought I had some stories to
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| It was made famous in Belgium by J.
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| | tell but his life is as captivating as a
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| Nuehus who added the praline hazelnut
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| | best selling novel. He is an undercover
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| cream. Each cocoa fruit contains 25
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| | agent in the Special Forces, trains Dutch
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| beans. The best comes from Ghana, Ivory
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| | combat troops in Germany preparing for
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| Coast and Indonesia. We learned all about
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| | tours in Kabul, works narcotics
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| the roasting and fermenting processes.
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| | infiltration and is a body guard for the
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| Jon expounded on how healthy his dark
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| | royal family. Kind of like Jack Bauer on
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| chocolate is with more magnesium and
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| | "24." Everything is "top secret" yet he
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| antioxidants. He even asserts that it
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| | reveals that he basically gets paid by
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| boosts energy and thus helps you loose
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| | the government to work out daily.
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| weight...convoluted thinking. It was
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| | Recently he transported orangutans form
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| however, once sold at chemists as
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| | the Amsterdam zoo to freedom in Borneo.
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| antidepressant medicine and unlimited
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| | The highlight of this trip for me was our
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| amounts were given to soldiers in wartime
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| | 2 hour city tour on bicycles. We looked
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| to combat stress. At the end of the
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| | like a motley crew as we headed out into
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| lecture, silver trays of truffles were
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| | narrow cobbled streets and over countless
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| presented along with a cup of hot
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| | bridges. As I peddled, I observed my
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| ganache, which tasted like chocolate
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| | group behind me. One woman is nearing 70,
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| soup. I never really cared for chocolate
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| | two are smoking cigarettes, Janice is
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| but it was infatuation at first bite.
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| | talking to America on her cell and one
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| Our next stop was Chocolate Manon which I
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| | unmentionable crashes into a car! She had
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| was told is run by a "chocolate nazi" who
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| | to pay the driver for damages on the
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| will lock the doors if we're one minute
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| | spot. It took complete concentration to
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| late. This small factory concentrates on
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| | cross the busy tram tracks. That morning
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| quality over quantity and fancy
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| | we rode through Vodelpark and the Red
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| packaging. The educational presentation
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| | Light district. It was interesting to see
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| was given by the owner Christian, who is
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| | the prostitutes as they just woke up to
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| both serious and hilarious. He only uses
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| | get their coffee dressed in jeans and
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| the highest quality vanilla, sugar,
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| | sneakers.
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| butter and 70% cocoa powder. This is a
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| | Holland is the land of the free. With
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| real factory with enormous chocolate
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| | prostitution legal, my group is most
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| blocks piled high and brown drippings
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| | inquisitive on this matter. We laughed as
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| everywhere. Sorry Hershey's, but the
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| | Marilyn said," Suzy, they all ask
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| cocoa here is not replaced with palm oil,
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| | questions on sex. Are they frustrated?"
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| chemicals, coloring, vegetable fats and
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| | I arranged a professional guided walking
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| lard. This is as pure as it gets and it's
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| | tour of the Red Light district in the
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| better than Swiss. They sell direct to
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| | oldest part of Amsterdam for the world's
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| Bergoff and Neimans in NYC. There are 443
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| | oldest profession. Since the 1400's,
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| chocolate factories in Belgium all with
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| | seamen would dock here to unload. Guides
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| the competitive spirit of Tour de France
| |
| | Gabriel and Shuert boldly led us through
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| between them. Godiva still reigns
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| | alleys of half clad ladies. No photos
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| supreme.
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| | allowed. We're told that some fear it'll
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| Christian explained that white chocolate
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| | go out on the web. Our guides explained
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| is really an oxymoron. It contains only
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| | that some women are forced here nowadays
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| milk, sugar, cream and 21% white cocoa
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| | and some are simply ashamed. Ladies
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| butter. As he lectured, he continually
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| | differ in size, shape and color as we
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| dipped his finger in to vats to taste his
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| | strolled through different quarters. On
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| latest batch, while quickly running back
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| | one street they're all obese. We learned
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| and forth with frenetic energy from molds
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| | to identify the transsexuals by two
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| to freezer. He has a true passion for his
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| | things surgery can't change - an adam's
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| product and consumes about 250 grams or a
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| | apple and a straight waist. Tastes
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| 1/2 lb a day, yet is as thin as Calista
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| | differ; the oldest woman here is 76 and
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| Flockhart.
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| | only works in summer. Only half use
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| I love my job, but would swap a month
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| | protection and monthly health checks are
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| with him anytime.Over 1000 fillings are
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| | required.
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| used inside the hollow shells. One by
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| | There are around 1000 prostitutes working
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| one, hundreds of shells are filled by
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| | 500 windows. They pay 150 to rent a
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| hand. Each piece is a mini-sculpture.
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| | window for 6-8 hours, and can make up to
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| We're invited to squeeze the ganache
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| | 450 per day. They pay taxes and can
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| pastry bags, but made a terrible mess and
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| | write receipts for services rendered. If
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| had to eat our mistakes. Nothing is
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| | the curtain is closed they are not on
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| discarded here. Even table scrapings will
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| | break. The area is flooded with tourists.
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| be remelted.
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| | Men pay 50 for 30 minutes, yet
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| Dark chocolate can be stored up to 15
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| | statistics reveal the average time spent
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| years and molded into any shape. We're
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| | is just 6 minutes.
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| shown pictures of intricate violins, a
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| | We crossed "Pill Bridge" named for the
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| woman's formal dress and a life size
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| | drugs pushed there and then toured the
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| dinning room table and chairs all made of
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| | Erotic Museum with photographs and "tools
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| chocolate.
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| | of the trade" dating back to the 17th
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| Monday we toured this proud and regal
| |
| | century on display. As I pondered and
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| city that is revealed in its royal
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| | stared at a metal chastity belt, Gabriel
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| palaces, cathedrals, museums and
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| | said "that blacksmiths always had a spare
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| onuments. We see the headquarters of the
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| | key which came in handy when the husbands
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| EU and site of the 1958 World's Fair with
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| | were away at sea." She also insisted the
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| the massive silver Atonium. We photograph
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| | Dutch were far less promiscuous than
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| the Mannekin Pis. [I never understood the
| |
| | Americans. I was concerned about my
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| love of this small bronze statue but it
| |
| | ultra-conservative teachers but nothing
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| represents Brussels. Perhaps it's found
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| | seemed to shock them. After awhile, our
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| in the irreverence of the artist.] Paula
| |
| | senses were over saturated and it became
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| was our guide for several days here. Her
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| | dull. The saddest sight was seeing a
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| stellar knowledge brought the history of
| |
| | "heroin hooker". She was emaciated with
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| Belgium to life, particularly the time
| |
| | glazed eyes and so many track marks that
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| when King Leopold purchased the Congo as
| |
| | she had to shoot it now under her tongue.
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| his personal playground. Paula deeply
| |
| | Police cameras were everywhere 24/7,
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| cared for her work and later invited us
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| | there is little crime and we felt totally
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| to visit yet another chocolate factory,
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| | safe.
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| but fully sated, we declined. For free
| |
| | Pot and hash are legal here in over 400
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| time we dispersed into tiny alleyways to
| |
| | "coffee shops" that sell joints and
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| intentionally get lost. Some searched out
| |
| | "ganja-space milkshakes." Locals told me
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| beer halls or hot sugar waffles, as
| |
| | they felt Americans were oppressed by too
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| others shopped for tapestries at
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| | many rules and can't understand how our
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| give-away prices.
| |
| | drug companies can sell meds on TV.
|
| Things become a bit blurry from here. I'd
| |
| | Enough on the wild side, this is also the
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| taken some great notes on napkins
| |
| | art capital of Europe boasting more
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| throughout and managed to loose them all
| |
| | museums per square foot than any other
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| enroute. But memory serves well as we
| |
| | city. Marilyn gave us a quick art lesson
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| head to the capital of Flanders and
| |
| | in a nutshell. She explained that this is
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| enchanting Bruges. This town is a
| |
| | the 400 year celebration of Rembrandt
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| complete UNESCO World Heritage Site with
| |
| | (1606-2006). He came from a family rich
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| a tranquil character that can't be
| |
| | in windmills. As a child, he was an
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| described. The people have done so much
| |
| | expert sketcher. Later in medical school,
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| to protect its medieval feel, it provides
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| | he did anatomical drawings of corpses
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| the magical affect of stepping back into
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| | from criminals. He studied more and soon
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| time. It is called "Little Venice" and we
| |
| | rose above the Dutch masters with the
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| enjoyed a boat cruise through the
| |
| | ability to capture light and shadows in
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| veritable maze of old canals that led to
| |
| | paint. He always began with a black
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| the Lake of Love. We strolled through
| |
| | canvas. Though blessed with enormous
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| ancient squares lined with houses of
| |
| | artistic talent, he couldn't manage his
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| gabled rooftops and various cathedrals of
| |
| | finances. He died penniless and was
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| holy this and holy that. Horse drawn
| |
| | entombed in a pauper's grave.
|
| carriages filled the cobbled streets. We
| |
| | Van Gogh grew up a lonely child and was
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| entered the neo-gothic Basilica of Holy
| |
| | very attached to his mother. His
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| Blood and climbed 365 steps up the Belfry
| |
| | hyper-critical father didn't like his
|
| Tower with its carillon bells that chimed
| |
| | artwork. He went to Paris to study the
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| so loud it could blow an eardrum. We
| |
| | impressionists. He was schizophrenic and
|
| visited the cities finest lace shop for a
| |
| | when he had episodes, it was seen in his
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| demonstration on lace making, which I
| |
| | paintings that grew wilder and wilder
|
| anticipated to be as exciting as watching
| |
| | each time. He cut off his ear and later
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| paint dry. It was however, quite
| |
| | committed suicide. His paintings were
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| fascinating watching the delicate work of
| |
| | discovered stored away in his family
|
| this 500 year old cottage industry.
| |
| | home. We learned so much here.
|
| We viewed an 18th century handkerchief so
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| | Many think they've seen Europe, but miss
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| intricate that it took 4 ladies nearly 10
| |
| | the countries with the most charm. Here
|
| years to complete! All for a distant
| |
| | we were enveloped by history, culture and
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| royal bride to blow her nose on.
| |
| | all that the Old Continent should be.
|
| I think I walked 67 kilometers that day.
| |
| | Also this wasn't a typical EU vacation
|
| (Life lesson #122- NEVER wears heels on
| |
| | with endless museums and cathedrals, but
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| cobbled streets.) Bruges is entirely cozy
| |
| | a creative itinerary which provided large
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| and colorful, as if stepping into a
| |
| | fun. Total cost was $1175 plus air (
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| postcard. At a café, I splurged on a
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| | 877-813-9421 or in GA 770-432-8225).
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| waffle topped with chocolate, fruit and
| |
| | Everyone's favorite stop was Bruges, but
|
| ice cream, so far, so good. For our
| |
| | for me Amsterdam was an urban
|
| entire trip we were blessed with no rain
| |
| | masterpiece. I found the Dutch far
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| and perfect weather.
| |
| | friendlier than other Europeans. This
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| I'm a city girl at heart and was happy to
| |
| | visit rekindled my love for the
|
| depart for Holland. William of Orange is
| |
| | Netherlands, that tiny country with 2
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| our jovial driver who just loaded our
| |
| | names. This time I looked through new
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| suitcases that have now swelled to 71
| |
| | eyeballs with my teachers who were
|
| pieces. This is a super double-decker
| |
| | experiencing their first trip abroad.
|
| with plenty of room for our 150 mile
| |
| | It was a wonderful group. One couple
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| journey. I joked on the mic as we crossed
| |
| | connected whom we later labeled "The
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| the border into Holland that there will
| |
| | Honeymooners" and I hope they last. In
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| be a 3 hour time change and never to
| |
| | flight home on Delta, I noticed among my
|
| drink the water. Much to my surprise my
| |
| | sleepy group that some were munching on
|
| dear novice travelers actually started
| |
| | their chocolates that were meant for
|
| changing their watches! We passed many
| |
| | gifts back home. And once in line at US
|
| Smart Cars manufactured by Mercedes and
| |
| | Customs, some were proudly wearing their
|
| Swatch. These toy-like hybrid two-seaters
| |
| | new, brightly painted, uncomfortable
|
| are expensive, but so adorable. On
| |
| | wooden clogs. I just have to do this trip
|
| arrival, we checked into the Novotel
| |
| | again.
|
