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A Unique Dining Experience in China - 'Yi Da Xin'

I force myself to leave my computer and Enough of my linguistics!The boss emerges
walk down for lunch. I have been writing from the kitchen a few moments later. He
all morning after my little jaunt down at is the chef of his restaurant while his
the artificial-turfed playground for my wife doubles as the cashier and waitress.
run and exercise. It's been a late start The little boss, the daughter, has her
and breakfast, a simple meal consisting own double role. She plays usher and
of wholewheat biscuits and a tetrapack of waitress. The three of them run the
sweet strawberry flavoured milk, was restaurant without outside help. I
delayed, too. To lunch or not to lunch is suspect they hire help in peak season or
the question.To lunch, I decide, is a when there is a sudden rush of diners.
better option... This evening I have to There are eight table-cloth'ed,
eat pizzas for dinner and though they're glass-topped tables that seat four each
a tasty enough repast, they're not quite on the ground floor and a couple of those
what my body thrives on. A university hideaway, round-tabled, private dining
official has invested in a new pizza rooms that all 'respectable' restaurants
joint in downtown Huainan and I have been in China have, on the first floor. They
asked to 'grace' the opening ceremony would certainly need extra help when all
along with the other two foreign teachers those tables are occupied. A television
here. They're Amercians, and, therefore, is mounted atop a raised shelf and I turn
high-profile. I am Indian, therefore, my eyes in its direction. There's a
tolerated. India's rapid economic family drama being played there and I
progress, of late, makes me less of a don't understand too much. 'My Chinese is
pariah than I might have been some years too poor,' I mimic some students' 'my
ago. A man is known by the country he English is too poor' in my mind as I
'keeps', to rephrase an old proverb, and watch the drama unfold. A middle-aged
a touch inappropriately at that. I, woman scolds her husband who leaves her,
sometimes, lie and sometimes joke about apparently for good, while her pretty
where I come from. I don't want to be daughter alternates between scolding hers
identified with merely my origins. and giving the most beatific of
There's more to me than where I was born smiles.Today, I am the sole customer.
and raised. In any case, I don't see my Others have come and gone or will come
lies as lies as I neither hope nor expect and go. The boss comes over with a bottle
to gain from the lies in any way. It's of baijiu (white wine) and offers me a
just a momentary thing.I walk past my glass. I ask him to make it small, 'yi
favourite eating place, Xiawu Fandian tiantian' (a little). The baijiu makes me
(Afternoon Restaurant). Of late, the fare drowsy and takes me away from my writing,
served there has failed to tickle my as does the beer. My afternoon naps last
palate or inspire my intestines. They longer than intended and I add an extra,
have changed the oil they use in their unwanted layer to my 'pijiu duzi' (beer
cooking. It has an unpleasant flavour and belly). The boss smiles as he pours me a
leaves a strange aftertaste. I informed drink. I thank him and begin to sip
the laoban niang (boss's wife) and leisurely while the ta baicai waits. The
pointed out my unfinished plate on a boss has disappeared into the kitchen
couple of occasions. She looked stoic and and arrives a little later, dish in hand,
unmoved so I decided it was time for me following his wife carrying another. They
to move, instead. Past the Afternoon place their lunch on a table across from
Restaurant and then the Friendship mine.Chen Tai Cao, the boss, goes over to
Restaurant across the street, where I a stack of brightly coloured plastic beer
sometimes eat. They serve cabbage with crates and picks out a bottle of
pre-fried tofu (the Chinese pronunciation unrefrigerated beer. He opens one and
is doufu) in medium spicy, sweetish style looks at me. Picking up a plastic glass,
that tickles my taste buds but leaves me he heads in my direction as I protest. He
bloated.The sky is overcast but the insists and pours me a glassful. Like so
temperature is comfortable at about ten many of his countrymen, a 'no' to Chen
above. I notice the open door of a means a 'yes'. It's polite to say no when
neighbouring optician's and decide to one means yes and a no can rarely
have a word with the boss as I ask for a dissuade a determined host. He, then,
little tinkering with my spectacles. I sits down to lunch with his small family,
hand him my metal-rimmed, plastic-lens pours himself a full glass of baijiu
glasses and he notices the problem. We while the remaining beer in the bottle is
chat briefly as he tightens the screw on aligned with the dishes.Chen and his
my spectacle arm. It's done in seconds family are soon absorbed in their meal
and he hands them back to me. I notice and pay no more attention to me. His sips
that the lens have the oily fogginess of the fiery baijiu are large and soon
that fingers leave on glasses and ask for his glass half-empty. They're half-way
a spectacle cleaning cloth, demonstrating into their meal and a pair of diners
the act of cleaning to tell him what I arrive. Chen leaves his seat without a
want. He opens a drawer and hands me a moment's hesitation, takes the order and
shiny new cleaning cloth. I ask him how disappears into the kitchen once again.
much. He motions, nothing. I feel a The little boss also leaves the table to
little little guilty accepting it for set the table for the new arrivals.
free but he refuses to accept payment. I Laoban niang continues with her meal. Her
thank him as I leave, wondering what turn to leave will come later.I watch the
makes the people in China so generous. I goings-on and eat quickly, having
head slowly away from the dongmen (east finished my baijiu and most of the
gate) as the main gate of the university beer.Soon, I am done with my lunch and
is commonly called.I find myself at the walk over the counter to pay for my
door of Yi Da Pan (One Big Pan), the lunch. Chen has come out and pushes my
restaurant that kept me alive when all of hand with the proffered money resolutely
Huainan and most of China had shut shop away.'Wo bu hui lai' (I can't come) I say
for the Spring Festival barely a month in my inadequate Chinese, threatening him
ago. All the little eateries near my with never visiting his restaurant again.
school, including Xiawu Fandian and Chen pushes my hand away again. I pretend
Friendship Restaurant had closed shop exasperation, repeating 'wo bu...' This
then, leaving those without culinary time Chen looks uncertain and says
skills and the handicapped to survive on something to his wife who takes the money
universal love and firecracker-affected and gives me the change. All she takes is
not-so-fresh-air. Yi Da Pan was about the san kuai qian (three yaun) for my lunch
only restaurant then that opened its and that after much no-noing.I walk out,
doors to welcome the hungry and feeling a sense of elation that one feels
homeless.Laoban (boss) welcomes me with a when one sees man display his finer
warm smile. Laoban niang and xiao laoban qualities. I think about the optician and
(little boss), the wife and daughter are Chen and his family and marvel at how
equally warm. 'Ta baicai (cabbage)?' the some people can be generous though
boss asks as he turns towards the they're themselves relatively poor. I
kitchen. I nod as I return his smile.The wonder what it is in China that endows
plate of stir-fried ta baicai, as it is some people with large hearts. I wonder
spelt in Pinyin (Chinese written/spelt in why some people are so accepting and
the Roman script), arrives a short wait endearing. I wonder why the rich often
later. The Chinese language has thousands want more while the poor are happy with
of characters and no one can tell for the little they have. I wonder why more
certain how many there really are. Pinyin men cannot be like Chen and the optician.
is the script they use to work on I wonder who is happier - the rich or the
computers or they would have needed a poor. I wonder why the rich scowl behind
keyboard the size of a mini. Pinyin uses their dark sunshades while the poor
a phonetic system quite different from smile in the sun.I smile as I think of
English or other Romance languages. The the name Chen has chosen for his
sounds used in the Chinese language are restaurant. 'Yi Da Pan' can so safely be
different from English and other European changed to 'Yi Da Xin' (One Big Heart -
languages. Therefore, they needed to or three - or more, perhaps!)Rajesh Kanoi
devise a system that included their (Jack) is a published writer, now living
phonemes. The 'ta' in ta baicai is and working in China. Many of his
pronounced with a soft 't' and a long short-stories, poems and articles have
vowel sound while the 'cai' in baicai is been published, including a book of
an aspirated 'chai'. The 'ch' sound is short-stories, 'From China With Love'
also different than the one used in (Lipstick Publishing).
English and has a little 's' ring to it.




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