A Unique Dining Experience in China - 'Yi Da Xin'

I force myself to leave my computer and walk downmy linguistics!The boss emerges from the kitchen a
for lunch. I have been writing all morning after myfew moments later. He is the chef of his restaurant
little jaunt down at the artificial-turfed playground forwhile his wife doubles as the cashier and waitress.
my run and exercise. It's been a late start andThe little boss, the daughter, has her own double role.
breakfast, a simple meal consisting of wholewheatShe plays usher and waitress. The three of them run
biscuits and a tetrapack of sweet strawberrythe restaurant without outside help. I suspect they
flavoured milk, was delayed, too. To lunch or not tohire help in peak season or when there is a sudden
lunch is the question.To lunch, I decide, is a betterrush of diners. There are eight table-cloth'ed,
option... This evening I have to eat pizzas for dinnerglass-topped tables that seat four each on the
and though they're a tasty enough repast, they'reground floor and a couple of those hideaway,
not quite what my body thrives on. A universityround-tabled, private dining rooms that all 'respectable'
official has invested in a new pizza joint in downtownrestaurants in China have, on the first floor. They
Huainan and I have been asked to 'grace' the openingwould certainly need extra help when all those tables
ceremony along with the other two foreign teachersare occupied. A television is mounted atop a raised
here. They're Amercians, and, therefore, high-profile. Ishelf and I turn my eyes in its direction. There's a
am Indian, therefore, tolerated. India's rapid economicfamily drama being played there and I don't
progress, of late, makes me less of a pariah than Iunderstand too much. 'My Chinese is too poor,' I
might have been some years ago. A man is knownmimic some students' 'my English is too poor' in my
by the country he 'keeps', to rephrase an oldmind as I watch the drama unfold. A middle-aged
proverb, and a touch inappropriately at that. I,woman scolds her husband who leaves her,
sometimes, lie and sometimes joke about where Iapparently for good, while her pretty daughter
come from. I don't want to be identified with merelyalternates between scolding hers and giving the most
my origins. There's more to me than where I wasbeatific of smiles.Today, I am the sole customer.
born and raised. In any case, I don't see my lies asOthers have come and gone or will come and go.
lies as I neither hope nor expect to gain from the liesThe boss comes over with a bottle of baijiu (white
in any way. It's just a momentary thing.I walk pastwine) and offers me a glass. I ask him to make it
my favourite eating place, Xiawu Fandian (Afternoonsmall, 'yi tiantian' (a little). The baijiu makes me
Restaurant). Of late, the fare served there has faileddrowsy and takes me away from my writing, as
to tickle my palate or inspire my intestines. Theydoes the beer. My afternoon naps last longer than
have changed the oil they use in their cooking. It hasintended and I add an extra, unwanted layer to my
an unpleasant flavour and leaves a strange'pijiu duzi' (beer belly). The boss smiles as he pours
aftertaste. I informed the laoban niang (boss's wife)me a drink. I thank him and begin to sip leisurely while
and pointed out my unfinished plate on a couple ofthe ta baicai waits. The boss has disappeared into the
occasions. She looked stoic and unmoved so Ikitchen and arrives a little later, dish in hand, following
decided it was time for me to move, instead. Pasthis wife carrying another. They place their lunch on a
the Afternoon Restaurant and then the Friendshiptable across from mine.Chen Tai Cao, the boss, goes
Restaurant across the street, where I sometimesover to a stack of brightly coloured plastic beer
eat. They serve cabbage with pre-fried tofu (thecrates and picks out a bottle of unrefrigerated beer.
Chinese pronunciation is doufu) in medium spicy,He opens one and looks at me. Picking up a plastic
sweetish style that tickles my taste buds but leavesglass, he heads in my direction as I protest. He insists
me bloated.The sky is overcast but the temperatureand pours me a glassful. Like so many of his
is comfortable at about ten above. I notice the opencountrymen, a 'no' to Chen means a 'yes'. It's polite
door of a neighbouring optician's and decide to haveto say no when one means yes and a no can rarely
a word with the boss as I ask for a little tinkeringdissuade a determined host. He, then, sits down to
with my spectacles. I hand him my metal-rimmed,lunch with his small family, pours himself a full glass of
plastic-lens glasses and he notices the problem. Webaijiu while the remaining beer in the bottle is aligned
chat briefly as he tightens the screw on mywith the dishes.Chen and his family are soon
spectacle arm. It's done in seconds and he handsabsorbed in their meal and pay no more attention to
them back to me. I notice that the lens have the oilyme. His sips of the fiery baijiu are large and soon his
fogginess that fingers leave on glasses and ask for aglass half-empty. They're half-way into their meal and
spectacle cleaning cloth, demonstrating the act ofa pair of diners arrive. Chen leaves his seat without a
cleaning to tell him what I want. He opens a drawermoment's hesitation, takes the order and disappears
and hands me a shiny new cleaning cloth. I ask himinto the kitchen once again. The little boss also leaves
how much. He motions, nothing. I feel a little littlethe table to set the table for the new arrivals.
guilty accepting it for free but he refuses to acceptLaoban niang continues with her meal. Her turn to
payment. I thank him as I leave, wondering whatleave will come later.I watch the goings-on and eat
makes the people in China so generous. I head slowlyquickly, having finished my baijiu and most of the
away from the dongmen (east gate) as the mainbeer.Soon, I am done with my lunch and walk over
gate of the university is commonly called.I find myselfthe counter to pay for my lunch. Chen has come out
at the door of Yi Da Pan (One Big Pan), theand pushes my hand with the proffered money
restaurant that kept me alive when all of Huainan andresolutely away.'Wo bu hui lai' (I can't come) I say in
most of China had shut shop for the Spring Festivalmy inadequate Chinese, threatening him with never
barely a month ago. All the little eateries near myvisiting his restaurant again. Chen pushes my hand
school, including Xiawu Fandian and Friendshipaway again. I pretend exasperation, repeating 'wo
Restaurant had closed shop then, leaving thosebu...' This time Chen looks uncertain and says
without culinary skills and the handicapped to survivesomething to his wife who takes the money and
on universal love and firecracker-affectedgives me the change. All she takes is san kuai qian
not-so-fresh-air. Yi Da Pan was about the only(three yaun) for my lunch and that after much
restaurant then that opened its doors to welcomeno-noing.I walk out, feeling a sense of elation that
the hungry and homeless.Laoban (boss) welcomesone feels when one sees man display his finer
me with a warm smile. Laoban niang and xiao laobanqualities. I think about the optician and Chen and his
(little boss), the wife and daughter are equally warm.family and marvel at how some people can be
'Ta baicai (cabbage)?' the boss asks as he turnsgenerous though they're themselves relatively poor. I
towards the kitchen. I nod as I return his smile.Thewonder what it is in China that endows some people
plate of stir-fried ta baicai, as it is spelt in Pinyinwith large hearts. I wonder why some people are so
(Chinese written/spelt in the Roman script), arrives aaccepting and endearing. I wonder why the rich often
short wait later. The Chinese language has thousandswant more while the poor are happy with the little
of characters and no one can tell for certain howthey have. I wonder why more men cannot be like
many there really are. Pinyin is the script they use toChen and the optician. I wonder who is happier - the
work on computers or they would have needed arich or the poor. I wonder why the rich scowl behind
keyboard the size of a mini. Pinyin uses a phonetictheir dark sunshades while the poor smile in the sun.I
system quite different from English or othersmile as I think of the name Chen has chosen for his
Romance languages. The sounds used in the Chineserestaurant. 'Yi Da Pan' can so safely be changed to 'Yi
language are different from English and otherDa Xin' (One Big Heart - or three - or more,
European languages. Therefore, they needed toperhaps!)Rajesh Kanoi (Jack) is a published writer,
devise a system that included their phonemes. Thenow living and working in China. Many of his
'ta' in ta baicai is pronounced with a soft 't' and a longshort-stories, poems and articles have been published,
vowel sound while the 'cai' in baicai is an aspiratedincluding a book of short-stories, 'From China With
'chai'. The 'ch' sound is also different than the oneLove' (Lipstick Publishing).
used in English and has a little 's' ring to it. Enough of